Hire a Fence Installer Near You
*6 min read · Last updated June 04, 2026*
In this article
– Before you contact any installer – What to ask before hiring – Red flags to watch for – How to compare fence quotes – FAQ
David needed to replace the aging split-rail fence along 180 feet of his lot line in Columbus. He called three installers. Quote one: $2,100, no written scope, the contractor said he’d “figure out materials on the day.” Quote two: $3,400 with a line-item breakdown. Quote three: $5,800 but included a cedar upgrade David hadn’t requested. He hired the $3,400 contractor, verified the permit was pulled before work started, and the job wrapped in two days. The $2,100 contractor, David later learned, had left a neighbor’s yard with fence posts set only 18 inches deep.
Before you contact any installer
Measure your lot line first. Get the approximate linear footage before calling anyone – this lets you evaluate quotes on a per-foot basis rather than total dollars. A contractor who quotes $4,200 for 140 feet ($30/ft) and one quoting $3,900 for 130 feet ($30/ft) are identical in per-foot cost – you’ll only catch that if you know your own footage.
Check your local permit requirements. Most municipalities require a permit for fences over a certain height (typically 4 to 6 feet) and have setback rules – the fence must sit a certain distance from the property line, street, or easement. Search your city’s building department for “fence permit requirements” before calling anyone.
Verify your property line if there’s any doubt. A fence installed even a few inches onto a neighbor’s lot creates a dispute that costs far more to resolve than a survey. Licensed land surveyors typically charge $300 to $700 to locate lot pins.
What to ask before hiring
Do you pull the permit? The standard is for the contractor to pull it. Some low-bid installers skip this and expect the homeowner to handle it – or skip permits entirely. The permit ensures an inspector signs off on code compliance.
What post depth and concrete spec are you quoting? Posts set too shallow fail faster in freeze-thaw regions. Ask specifically: how deep, and how many bags of concrete per post. This should appear in the written estimate.
What hardware are you using? In coastal or humid climates, galvanized or stainless-steel hardware extends fence life significantly. Standard black screws oxidize within three to five years.
Does your quote include removal of the old fence? Demolition and disposal is often a $200 to $600 add-on not included in the base quote. Know before you sign.
What is your labor warranty? A reputable installer stands behind their work for at least one to two years. Material warranties come from the manufacturer – ask for those in writing too.
Ready to compare local fence installer quotes? Find a vetted fence installer near you via Thumbtack and get free quotes from background-checked pros.
Red flags to watch for
No permit line item in the quote. Either the contractor doesn’t know your local requirements or plans to skip it. Ask directly.
Post depth not specified in the written estimate. Post depth is the primary labor quality indicator – if it isn’t written down, there’s no commitment to a standard.
Demo not mentioned and no explanation. Not including removal is fine, but the contractor should bring it up proactively. A contractor who doesn’t is either hoping you won’t notice or hasn’t done a thorough site review.
No certificate of insurance. Fence work involves digging and heavy materials. General liability plus worker’s comp is the minimum. Ask for the certificate before signing.
How to compare fence quotes
Compare on a per-linear-foot basis, not total dollars. A $28/ft quote that includes permit, concrete, galvanized hardware, and haul-away is better value than a $22/ft quote that excludes all four of those items.
| Material | Typical Range (per linear foot) | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Pressure-treated wood (stockade, privacy) | $18 – $35/ft | Most common residential choice; lifespan 10-15 years with maintenance; stain every 2-3 years |
| Cedar | $25 – $45/ft | Naturally rot-resistant; no staining required for first several years; cleaner appearance |
| Vinyl/PVC | $25 – $50/ft | No painting or staining; 20-30 year lifespan; higher upfront, lower maintenance cost |
| Aluminum or steel (ornamental) | $30 – $60/ft | Decorative, durable, no painting needed; not typically used for privacy |
| Chain link | $12 – $25/ft | Lowest installed cost; minimal maintenance; no privacy; commonly used for pet containment or yard delineation |
| Split rail | $10 – $22/ft | Decorative or boundary marker; not a privacy fence; lowest material cost |
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FAQ
How long does fence installation take?
A standard job – 100 to 200 linear feet, flat terrain – takes one to two days. Sloped terrain or complex gate hardware adds a day. Concrete curing (24-48 hours) typically means a second trip before panels go up.
Do I need a permit to replace an existing fence?
In most municipalities, yes – especially if the new fence matches or exceeds the old height. Some jurisdictions exempt like-for-like replacements. Check with your local building department first. Permit fees run $50 to $200.
Should I split the cost with my neighbor if the fence is on the property line?
That’s a conversation, not a legal requirement in most states – though some states have cost-sharing statutes. Have it before installation starts, confirm the property line, and get any agreement in writing.
What changes the price most?
Material choice and terrain. Cedar on a flat lot comes in lower than the same material on a sloped lot with a concrete footing requirement. Gate hardware adds $150 to $400 per gate.
Can I stay in the yard during installation?
Yes, but keep pets and children away from the work area. Post-hole diggers, nail guns, and concrete mix are active hazards during the dig and pour phase.
